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I stay for a long period high up a hill in a barrio on the northeast end of Guanajuato, in the beautiful home of Ana, a concert pianist who gladly introduces me to her various neighbors and friends. When she had her place built against the rocks a couple of years ago, she was highly inspired by the simple forms, natural materials, unique landscape designs, and bold colors of the late Modernist Mexican architect Luis Barragán.
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From the many floor-to-ceiling windows, the unexpected open wall spaces and the immense rooftop terrace, I have magnificent views over the valley, the surrounding hills, and the ever-blue sky. During happy hours on the roof, I watch the sundown, listen to Ana playing the piano, and sip contentedly from a local mescal or tequila, drinks made from the maguey and blue agave plants.
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(2013) Anita Brenner and Illustrated Travel Magazines of Mexico (1995-1971). Presented at: Harry Ransom Center Research Fellows' Brown-Bag Seminar, HRC, University of Texas, Austin, USA.
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Buses without mufflers have their destinations hand-written on their windshields and add their own "music" to the street scene with their noisy engines and grinding gears. And so do university students dressed in garbs of Renaissance minstrels, guiding people through the historic center while singing, dancing, playing music (string instruments and tambourine), and reciting the city’s old legends. It is a Spanish custom called callejoneadas, in the old days performed by poor university students eager to earn some pocket money. Although it has practically died out on the European continent, it is a tradition kept fervently alive in Guanajuato. Sometimes, tequila is part of the "walking serenade" as well!